The cosmopolitan capital of Kenya, today home to 1.5 million people, began
as a swampy tent city at the turn of the century. Until the late 1800s, it was
nothing more than a watering hole for the Maasai. Then came the Mombasa to Uganda
railway and its 32,000 indentured Indian laborers. By 1900, Nairobi had become
a town with substantial buildings and a permanent population. In 1907, the fledgling
town became capital of British East Africa.
Like most modern cities, Nairobi has crowded markets and trading areas, middle
class suburbs, and spacious mansions for the rich and powerful. It also has
vast overcrowded tenements and slums, exploitation, and high unemployment. Between
these two worlds, the city offers big screen film, theaters, restaurants, bookshops,
cafes and bars full of tourists from all over the world.
Nairobi’s City Center is in the area bounded by Uhuru Highway, Haile
Selassie Ave., Tom Mboya Way, and University Way. Bus stations and train stations
are within an easy walk of the City Center. Uhuru Park sits to the west of City
Center and, just beyond, are some of the city’s better middle to top-range
accommodations. Travelers are cautioned not to walk in this area at night as
Uhuru Park and its environs have been described as a mugger’s paradise!
Also west of the park are a number of government ministries, hospitals, and
a popular youth hostel. Budget travelers will find more moderately priced accommodations
clustered around Latema Road, on the fringe of the River Road. The middle class
suburbs of Ngong and Hurlingham sprawl out beyond the western boundaries of
the city. Prominent warning signs, patrolling security, and high fences visibly
underscore the economic disparity and crime concerns that characterize parts
of Nairobi.
The University of Nairobi, Kenya’s National Museum, and the International
Casino dominate the area north of City Center. One of Nairobi’s original
colonial hotels, The Norfolk, is also located here. Aga Khan Hospital and the
Parklands, a suburb dominated by many of Nairobi’s Asian minority, are
located north-east of the city. Due east of this area are the African suburbs
of Eastleigh and Pangani along with the country bus station.
Exploring Nairobi
Nairobi provides a vast array of opportunity for exploration and discovery.
For history/anthropology buffs, the National archives and the National Museum
of Kenya are essential stops. Both feature fascinating exhibits and showcase
relics found nowhere else in the world. The Railway Museum details the history
of the Lunatic Line and includes numerous photographs and other memorabilia.
Travelers interested in art may enjoy the Gallery Watatu, a commercial gallery
featuring revolving displays by over 30 artists from across Africa. The Payapaa
Arts Center is a working artists’ studio used by painters and sculptors.
It also features a permanent collection and a sales gallery.
Nairobi is perhaps the only capital city in the world that feature wildlife
game parks that offer a constant view of the city skyline. Travelers can visit
an animal orphanage at Langata maintained by the World Wide Fund for Nature
as an animal hospital and a research/breeding center for rare species. Also
at Langata is a Giraffe Center dedicated to the protection and nurturing of
the rare Rothschild giraffe. Since 1978, the center has been operated by the
African Fund for Endangered Wildlife who maintains a special emphasis of conservation
and education. Nairobi National Park covers a 120 sq km area between the city
and the Athi River. Established in 1946, this was the first game reserve to
be officially declared a national park and today features over 80 species of
mammal and 500 species of bird.
Also of cultural interest to travelers is the Bomas of Kenya, an African folk
center featuring small tribal villages and souvenirs. Uhuru Gardens mark Kenya’s
independence from Britain in 1963 with a monument, musical fountain, and garden
area. Limuru and Ngong Hills on the outskirts of Nairobi provide travelers with
a taste of British colonial life at the turn of the century.
Surrounded by an arid, extraterrestrial landscape that is often devoid of life,
the long body of Lake Turkana droops down from the Ethiopian border, extending
nearly 200 miles from north to south and 30 miles at its widest point. It is
Africa's fourth largest lake, fondly called the Jade Sea because of its breathtaking
color.